The First Lady Wardrobe: History Worn in Public
With the holiday season approaching, we thought we could use a little red in our lives. Laura Bush’s magnificent ruby-red inaugural gown supplies it in sparkling abundance.
Look closely at the photographs. Floral patterns spread across the bodice, sleeves, and skirt, their embellishments catching the light. Beside the gown sits a red evening bag with a glittering clasp. Its designer’s connection to inaugural fashion reaches back nearly half a century.
Ruby Red for an Inaugural Evening
For the 2001 inaugural balls, Laura Bush wore a gown by Dallas designer Michael Faircloth. The Smithsonian identifies its materials as crystal-embroidered Chantilly lace over silk georgette. Long sleeves and a softly scooped neckline frame the elaborate decoration, while the skirt carries that rich red to the floor.
Seen at a distance, the gown makes an immediate impression through color and silhouette. Up close, its appeal lies in the workmanship: curling floral motifs, delicate lace, and crystals that give the fabric depth and sparkle. Our detail photographs invite the kind of looking that a fleeting inaugural television appearance rarely allows.
Bush presented the gown to the Smithsonian in January 2002. The museum’s announcement also identified a matching coat, shoes, and bag among the accompanying pieces to be displayed. Together, those objects preserve the choices that shaped her appearance for the evening.
A Small Bag with a Longer History
Bush’s ruby-red purse was designed by Judith Leiber. Its gathered fabric and decorative surface complement the gown, while the bright clasp supplies a sparkling focal point.
Leiber’s name offers a connection to another celebrated inaugural wardrobe: Mamie Eisenhower’s in 1953.
At the time, Leiber worked for Nettie Rosenstein, the fashion house responsible for Mamie’s famous pink inaugural gown. Leiber designed and constructed the accompanying evening bag while employed there—ten years before establishing her own company in 1963.
In a 2010 interview with Collectors Weekly, Leiber recalled: “Nettie made the dress, and I designed the pattern for the bag and put it together.”
Before Laura’s Red, Mamie’s Pink
Mamie Eisenhower’s 1953 inaugural gown was made of pink peau de soie embroidered with more than 2,000 rhinestones. Designed by Eva Rosencrans for Nettie Rosenstein, its expansive skirt created a very different silhouette from Laura Bush’s gown forty-eight years later.
Mamie’s handbag carried the pink and sparkle into her hand. A small, rounded silk pouch, it featured pink lace embellished with pearls and rhinestones and a double rhinestone closure. In a 2001 interview published by Smithsonian, Leiber remembered making the bag as a great honor. She also recalled creating another inaugural bag for Mamie when Eisenhower was reelected.
By the time Laura Bush became First Lady, Leiber had left her company. Yet the personal relationships continued. Discussing Laura in her Collectors Weekly interview, Leiber explained that she made bags for her “out of friendship.”
That detail gives the two ensembles a particularly appealing connection. Behind Mamie’s pink and Laura’s ruby red stood the work of the same woman, whose career linked inaugural wardrobes across forty-eight years.
Why It Matters
First Lady wardrobes preserve evidence of craftsmanship, business relationships, and the people who helped create a public appearance. Looking closely at an accessory can bring one of those makers into view.
Here, a red evening bag beside Laura Bush’s gown takes us back to a pink purse carried by Mamie Eisenhower—and to Judith Leiber’s work before her own name became a celebrated fashion label.
For this installment of The First Lady Wardrobe, we came for the ruby red. We stayed for the handbag.
Sources
Smithsonian National Museum of American History. “Laura Bush’s Inaugural Ball Gown, 2001.” Collection record describing Michael Faircloth’s gown and identifying Judith Leiber as the purse’s designer.
Smithsonian National Museum of American History. “Laura Bush’s 2001 Inaugural Ball Purse.” Catalog number 2001.0135.04. Identifies Judith Leiber as the maker.
Smithsonian National Museum of American History. “Laura Bush Presents Inaugural Ball Gown to the Smithsonian.” January 19, 2002.
Moen, Christian Harlan. “Mamie’s Purse.” Smithsonian, September 2001. Describes Mamie’s inaugural handbag and includes Leiber’s recollections of making it while working for Nettie Rosenstein.
“Purse Perfection: Judith Leiber on Faberge, Rhinestones, and Her Favorite First Ladies.” Collectors Weekly, 2010 interview. Leiber discusses creating Mamie’s handbag and later making bags for Laura Bush out of friendship after leaving her company.
Smithsonian Institution. “Mamie Eisenhower’s Inaugural Gown, 1953.” Describes the pink fabric and rhinestone decoration.
White House Historical Association. “Glamour and Innovation: Nettie Rosenstein.” Credits Nettie Rosenstein and Eva Rosencrans for Mamie’s 1953 inaugural gown.
Images
Photographs of Laura Bush 2001 Inaugural gown taken at the Smithsonian, Sept 2026 by HiTV.